Papa Bear’s Guide to Acquiring Building
Materials
Step I: Find a suitable donor structure.
This can be done any number of ways, but the most
important thing is to keep your ears open. Derelict houses, barns, sheds,
etc. are being demolished all the time. Occasionally owners of these
candidates will offer their buildings for deconstruction; other times
owners must be tracked down and persuaded. Get the word out that you are
looking for deconstruction opportunities, and before you know it you may
have more work than you know what to do with. It is in your best interests
if the owner plans to bulldoze and bury the remains of a site after your
reclamation efforts as is the case in this area. Being responsible for site
clean-up is expensive and time consuming.
Two important factors to consider in your candidate are
size and condition. Don’t get in over your head. Be sure it’s a
project you can safely tackle. Careful inspection of the structure should
give you some idea of what you will find underneath. Is the roof visibly
damaged? If so, expect water damage in the framing below. Are the floors
badly sloped? Sounds like the floor joists may be shot. Above all, consider
how much of the materials will be useful to you before taking a project on.
You don’t want to spend hours stripping a structure only to find
there isn’t much of value underneath.
Step II: Prepare for demolition.
Now that you have a structure to take apart, you are
going to need the tools to get the job done. Never expect electricity at
your site—in fact, if there is power, you will want to shut it down
as soon as possible. There is plenty of danger involved in demo work
without the added concern of electrocution. The tools you will use most are
a hammer and pry bar. It helps to have a variety on hand for different
applications. A long heavy crow bar is great for leverage but is tiring to
use and doesn’t work in tight spaces. A shorter flat pry bar excels
in those situations and is easily carried about. A cat’s paw can help
extract embedded nails but damages wood far more than a nail puller. A
standard framing or claw hammer will do for most of the job, but sometimes
you need or want the brute force of a sledge. A hand saw or cordless saws
can cut wood members or even hardware to aid extraction. You will also want
a cordless drill with an assortment of bits, a socket set and wrenches
handy. You will be surprised by the myriad fasteners used over the lifetime
of a building. Channel locks, pliers, wire cutters and utility knives also
have a place in my tool bag. For desperate measures and for removing
flooring a chainsaw is indispensable. Even on a small shed you will be
working over your head at some point, and likely on the roof before
it’s over. Bring along at least one step ladder. An extension ladder
makes roof access far easier. You may find a broom and scoop shovel come in
handy too.
Safety first: you are going to be using all these tools
in an enclosed space, so wear hearing protection. Expect debris and the
occasional nail to come flying at you, so wear eye protection. Also you are
going to be moving through the layers of decades of dust, insects and
paint, often with lead, so a dust mask or respirator is often in order.
Gloves help prevent blisters and many scraped knuckles.
Step III: Get to it already.
First a note: you can never be sure of what you will
find in a place like this. Some things, like windows, sinks, countertops
and cabinets, are easily removed and reused. Other treasures may abound as
well; I’ve known pianos, treadle sewing machines, furniture, clothes,
antique cameras and more to be discovered and taken home to a new life.
Consider removing such items at the outset before demo debris makes it more
challenging.
Now your tool bag is packed and the big day has come.
Here it helps to have some understanding of the building process because
the best way to take a building apart and not damage the material in the
process is in the reverse order of its construction. If you don’t
have building experience, don’t fret; demo is a great way to gain
understanding of how buildings are put together.

Start on the inside by removing any trim and interior
doors. Tapping a flat pry bar with a hammer is often all you need to get
the tip behind the wood. Start at one end of the material and work your way
toward the other, prying directly behind each nail. With both the interior
and exterior trim removed, you can take out the windows. If you are careful
you can do this without breaking the glass. This is a good time to remove
any ceiling tiles and furring strips of anything else high up on the walls
or ceiling while the floor is still in place.
Next, if there is tongue and groove flooring, clear one
room entirely, and using the chainsaw, cut through both ends of all the
boards as close to the wall as possible. Now grab a heavy hammer and bust
up the first three or four floor boards along one wall. The only way to
salvage tongue and groove is to pry from the tongue edge and you
won’t know which way the flooring was laid until you bust some out.
Also, you won’t have clearance for prying until you are a foot or so
from the wall anyway. You may find kneepads helpful for this
part—alternatively I have found it helpful to sit on a skateboard and
roll from side to side as I pull the nails from each joist. Once the
flooring is up, the joists are often exposed. The chainsaw is the quickest
way to free those joists. With the flooring removed you have opened up a
cavity in the house that is a convenient place to throw the detritus from
the other rooms. Move through the house room by room in this fashion.
At this point you have done just about everything you
need to do from inside the house. Let’s move outside and start
ripping off siding. For the most part, you are going to find wood
clapboards nailed to the outside of the walls. These were installed from
the bottom of the wall to the top and can only be removed whole in the
opposite order. However, since these clapboards are often lead painted and
rarely reusable you may opt to break them off the wall any way you see fit.
Once the siding is removed and you’ve cleared any insulation, you
will most likely see one of two things: either the back side of interior
lath-and-plaster walls or planks of sheathing. If it is the former, use
your sledge to knock all that off the framing members into the hole left by
the floor. If it is the latter, first pull the nails securing the
sheathing, removing it from the top of the wall to the bottom, and then
proceed with the sledge.
Rafters are exposed in a similar fashion, working from
the outside in. Generally a flat pry bar is all you need to remove old
asphalt shingles or the wooden shakes you occasionally find beneath them.
Letting these materials just slide off the roof as you work is often the
easiest thing, but beware this could easily mean nails sticking up out of
the ground you will be working from. You may want to clean up as you go. As
a general rule, you will want to keep any wood with nails sticking out of
it as far from your feet as possible. As you remove wooden members you
intend to keep, be sure to de-nail them as you go. Clean lumber stacks
neatly and is easier and safer to handle.
 Papa Bear's sketch of Larkspur
Starting at the edge of the roof and working your way
toward the peak allows you to use the exposed purlins like rungs of a
ladder to remove roofing materials further up. Be sure to remove all
roofing nails before moving about on the purlins to lessen the likelihood
of getting yourself snagged and tripping. It is perhaps most important
while working on the roof, but before you put your weight on any wooden
member be sure it is not suffering from decay or rot. Remove the purlins
with your pry bar beginning at the peak and working back down. You may find
that at some point in the process it will be easier to stand between the
rafters on the tops of the ceiling joists to remove the remaining purlins.
Be sure to step only on the joists as the lath-and-plaster ceiling can give
way under foot.
While you are up on the roof, go ahead and pry the
rafters off the building. At the end of this step you are left with bare
stud walls supporting joists and ceiling. Knock out the ceiling with the
sledge hammer, a firm grip and sure footing. A ladder braced against the
top of the wall can give you the position you will need to pry off the
now-naked ceiling joists. Set up your ladder along the wall and hammer the
top plate off the studs. The studs can be pried off the bottom plate, which
can then be pried off the sill beams. If the sill beams are sound, the
chainsaw can free them. Be sure to clear the debris from around the cut
first.
Congratulations. Where there once was a house there is
now a small debris field and many stacks of perfectly good materials. In
order to fully recycle the structure all you need to do now is reassemble
those materials in the form of a new structure. It will give you great
pride to know so well the history of that wood.
Subscribe to the March Hare!
Dancing Rabbit's list of Subscribing Members is growing every month. You can
be one too, for only $8-30 (sliding scale) per year! We will happily waive this fee
if you can't pay--just drop us a note. Send checks to:
1 Dancing Rabbit Lane * Rutledge, MO 63563 * (660) 883-5511
Or, if you prefer, you can receive the March Hare for free via email, type in your email address in the form below and click "Sign Up!".
Come see our past issues for lots of Dancing Rabbit information.
|